Valentino FW12

 

At the forefront of every brand is the idea of their quintessential woman.

And if there were a show to so succinctly define the 'Valentino Girl' of recent seasons, it would be Fall/Winter 2012.

 

The vision communicated by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picioli was one of contradiction - and yet was explicitly eloquent in its delivery.

 

Before I had even laid an eye on the designers' inspiration for the season, I had already come to the above conclusion.

As it turns out, the image of Mick Jagger's 1969 coat dress wouldn't look horrifyingly out of place on the mood board for the collection (as reported by Paris Modes - below), which was very much underpinned by the undone androgyny of the late 60's and 70's.

 

 

Opening the show was a stealthy punch of jet black leather, with masculine tailoring taking the form of full-length macs, capes and culloutes. The look was severe, all but for the punctuating collars of blouson white shirts.

 

 

In a folksy twist, intricate craftsmanship and needlepoint embroidery celebrated the couture heritage of the design house, introducing warm umber tones to crisp whites and ivories. Sleeves elegantly cloaked arms, while waists were highlighted by a neat unpronounced bodice - instantly feminising the rougher elements of the designs.

 

Rich contrasts in texture and delicate embellishment then made way for a customary dose of Valentino Red, lacquering established silhouettes in a slick of crimson.

Finally, to see out the collection came a string of elaborate, though remarkably subtle high-neck evening gowns with playful layers of sheer chiffon and beading.

 

 

 

Hair was likewise laced with tradition, as centre-partings were swept into graceful, almost Pre-Raphaelite up-dos.

Like a Tim Walker photograph, Valentino is a label that seems to uphold an unyielding association with femininity, all the while exploring a sense of morbid fascination that contributes to a compelling aesthetic. For the fashion house, FW12 stands as a landmark in the new direction taken since the creative directors took the helm from Valentino himself. Not only have they sculpted a new silhouette for the brand, but they have also shaped the story of the woman who would wear it; the Valentino Girl is betrothed to classic beauty, but will flirt with darkness and chaos.

 

[All catwalk photos from style.com]