Confessions of a Poppinsaholic

Mary Poppins by x-shes-a-colour-scientist-x featuring a jacquard dress

Jacquard dress / Lace dress / Bustier corset top / Tapestry High Waisted Knickers / American Apparel socks / American Apparel socks / American Apparel socks / ASOS shoes / ASOS lace up booties / Dolce&Gabbana floral handbag, $2,270 / Umbrella

 

 

As a self-confessed Mary Poppins fanatic, the fall/winter catwalk shows were enough to drive me nuts, for all the piled-high tapestry and romantic ruffled lace were sure to lead to a high street rich in all things upholstery. (I cannot emphasise enough the perfection of the words "high-waisted tapestry knickers".)

 

It's safe to say that since childhood, I have spent most of my life desperately trying to emulate Mary Poppins - (or, to be more specific, a hybrid of Mary and Pocahontas). And, though a Dolce and Gabbana needlepoint bag may be a little out of reach for the time being, wearing this jacquard dress, with my parrot-head umbrella in hand, is enough to make me feel practically perfect in every way. Well, almost...

The Look: Valentino

 

(Left to Right: Wool Coat - Zara, Knitted Skater Dress - Something Else, High Neck Lace Dress - Topshop, Wool Jacquard Coat - Zara)

 

With a chill in the air, white may not seem the most obvious go-to winter warmer - but these Valentino-inspired pieces are a sure fire way to send pulses racing.

 

Breathtakingly simple and cut to stand the test of time, each of these designs give scope for updating season after season. High neck lines allude to tradition, yet feel very current. Match with gently dishevelled french braids for a whisper of femininity, or keep to clean and crisp tailored lines and block colours for a more modern approach.

 

Either way, it's very Valentino...

Valentino FW12

 

At the forefront of every brand is the idea of their quintessential woman.

And if there were a show to so succinctly define the 'Valentino Girl' of recent seasons, it would be Fall/Winter 2012.

 

The vision communicated by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picioli was one of contradiction - and yet was explicitly eloquent in its delivery.

 

Before I had even laid an eye on the designers' inspiration for the season, I had already come to the above conclusion.

As it turns out, the image of Mick Jagger's 1969 coat dress wouldn't look horrifyingly out of place on the mood board for the collection (as reported by Paris Modes - below), which was very much underpinned by the undone androgyny of the late 60's and 70's.

 

 

Opening the show was a stealthy punch of jet black leather, with masculine tailoring taking the form of full-length macs, capes and culloutes. The look was severe, all but for the punctuating collars of blouson white shirts.

 

 

In a folksy twist, intricate craftsmanship and needlepoint embroidery celebrated the couture heritage of the design house, introducing warm umber tones to crisp whites and ivories. Sleeves elegantly cloaked arms, while waists were highlighted by a neat unpronounced bodice - instantly feminising the rougher elements of the designs.

 

Rich contrasts in texture and delicate embellishment then made way for a customary dose of Valentino Red, lacquering established silhouettes in a slick of crimson.

Finally, to see out the collection came a string of elaborate, though remarkably subtle high-neck evening gowns with playful layers of sheer chiffon and beading.

 

 

 

Hair was likewise laced with tradition, as centre-partings were swept into graceful, almost Pre-Raphaelite up-dos.

Like a Tim Walker photograph, Valentino is a label that seems to uphold an unyielding association with femininity, all the while exploring a sense of morbid fascination that contributes to a compelling aesthetic. For the fashion house, FW12 stands as a landmark in the new direction taken since the creative directors took the helm from Valentino himself. Not only have they sculpted a new silhouette for the brand, but they have also shaped the story of the woman who would wear it; the Valentino Girl is betrothed to classic beauty, but will flirt with darkness and chaos.

 

[All catwalk photos from style.com]

Raf Simons' New Look

It was inevitable. With the footsteps of the first model to walk at Dior's Fall Couture Show in July, bets were settled and it seems we all made a pretty penny.

True to media speculation, Raf Simons' debut collection for the fashion house took a walk down memory lane, reviving classic silhouettes from where it all began,

but with a spritz of his signature sense of chic simplicity.

 

And how could he do otherwise?

 

(Left) Marilyn Monroe in Dior, Bert Stern for Vogue, 1962, (Right) Saskia de Brauw in Dior, Ruth Hogben for Another, 2012

 

In the wake of John Galliano's turbulent departure from Dior, a reference to its unforgettable 'New Look' seems all too apt. After all, the birth of the brand in 1946 ensued scandal of a different kind. Dior emerged from post-war Paris amidst a landscape of sunken Couturiers, who, to the distaste of the rationed wider world, had continued to produce under the Nazi occupation.

Christian Dior was a designer clear from controversy.

 

What Simons has done here is take that same breath of fresh air to wipe the slate clean.

It was a necessary interlude before his own voice can be heard.

 

Throughout this echo of the past, however, is the heartbeat of recent Jil Sander collections. Slicked hair bowing to the command of a centre-parting and a slick of neon-red lip added a much missed element of minimalist drama to the renowned extravagance of a Dior show.

And, oddly enough, a touch of Christopher Kane crept in...or maybe that's just me?

 

(Left): Christian Dior FC12, Christian Dior FC12, Christopher Kane RST11, Christopher Kane SS07

 

 

To give Simons the credit he rightly deserves, the short flushes of originality that made their way onto the runway this season were beautifully executed.

A personal highlight was a wonderfully structured dress and trouser combination, that managed to be both opulent and understated..

 

 

I only anticipate Simmons' collections to follow will develop on a similar note.

 

Though couture may not be wearable - not to mention affordable - to the average woman, I have selected a couple of high street items to channel your inner 'New Look'...

 

 

 

 

Lace Roll Neck Top - Topshop, Bronze Jacquard Skirt - Asos, (Right): Christian Dior FC12

Hello.

I feel the need to explain myself.

My name is Rebekka (Bekki) Ayres.

 

B + Ayres = Bears.

 

As I like fashion, add 'wears' to your answer.

 

In all honesty, I am a thoroughbred geek, and plan to trawl through the catwalk trends of the season with a fine-toothed calculator...

 

Think of these as my fashion sums - simple formulas that equate to a nice runway look.

 

Now, an introduction seems in order, but boring basic facts about myself send me straight to sleep. I'd prefer to take the approach of a certain type of person that everybody will have had either the pleasure or misfortune of meeting at one point in their life. I'm referring to the kind of person who sits unsettlingly close to me on the bus, even when the rest of the seats are empty, and takes a cat out of their bag. For all its eccentricity and invasion of personal space, by the time I have to get off at my stop, I somehow manage to get to know these people on a level that I haven't even achieved with the longest-running of accquaintances.

 

So let's give it a go..

I sleep on my side, I have porridge every day, I am fantastically shy and perfectly happy just to observe, rivers make me happy, I like ugly colours and ugly things, sometimes my dreams run entirely in rhyme, I would say I like to read but truthfully I just look at the pictures, often there are no thoughts in my head - just one line of a song on loop, I like being on my own, je parle français - I'm working on Dutch, wondering around Soho is my favourite, I would describe myself as painfully in love with Jarvis Cocker, coffee is better than tea, cats are better than dogs, when I'm away from home I miss the people who work in the shops I go to, I somersaulted out of the bath when I was 2 years old and landed on my feet and now I feel like nothing I do can match up to this kind of success.

 

But I will try.

 

Thank you for having me.

xxx

 

P.s this is my face: